A Vegetarian's Praise for Ben's Chili Bowl
by Max Goldblatt
OCTOBER 9, 2009 TAGS:
(Ed. Note: Ben Ali, the proprietor of Ben's Chili Bowl, one of Washington D.C.'s landmark culinary attractions, died on Wednesday, October 7. He was 82 years old. Tale of his famed chili, spiced with the flavors of his native Trinidad, and piled atop half smoked hot dogs, fries and hamburgers to order, spread across the country drawing famed musicians, actors, presidents and Nobel Peace Prize winners to his door. Ben was legendary. He kept the restaurant open during the D.C. riots in 1968 feeding protesters, police and observers alike. Ali's chili has uniting appeal.)
I've been vegetarian my entire life. As the story goes, when my dear mother attempted to introduce meat into my diet, she was far too late. I simply swiped the swine off my plastic toddler-plate and uttered disdainfully, "Animal." The issue, for me was purely aesthetic. Some people don't dig brussels sprouts, some people don't dig Jerry Lewis, I don't dig carne.
As I grew up I developed into something of a foodie, but obviously the lion's share of culinary delights are not intended for me. I can't appreciate bone marrow or charcuterie or a cheeseburger. I've gotten by on salad in a churrascaria, watching the gauchos deliver fresh slabs to my omnivorous friends (whom I do not judge). The salad was fine.
When I was in D.C. recently, and I heard that Ben's Chili Bowl had a veggie chili, I knew I would have to go. So many of these local institutions are meat-centric and the assumption is that they could care less about their veg-brethren. But Ben cared. Hell, you master the art of chili (Ben's won a James Beard award in 2004), making a meatless version shouldn't be all that difficult.
After a few drinks with some college friends, we headed over to 1213 U Street, hopped on some stools at the counter and ordered. I asked for veggie chili cheese fries, making sure to emphasize the word "veggie." It's easy to see that you've accidentally been served a beef patty instead of a soy-based one, but chili and veggie chili look an awful lot alike. Moments later this beautiful pile appeared in front of me, as if sent from some psychedelic comfort food heaven: steamy chili atop gooey neon cheese atop perfectly fried potatoes.
The pile had a short life. Was it good? It was perfect. And anyway, I needed to renew my membership in the Clean The Plate Club, which I did with gusto. Thanks, Ben, for allowing this vegetarian to see what all the fuss is about.
Max Goldblatt is a music video director, documentary editor, dance choreographer, food writer and founder of a band called "The Combover." He blogs at http://tothemaxxx.tumblr.com
I've been vegetarian my entire life. As the story goes, when my dear mother attempted to introduce meat into my diet, she was far too late. I simply swiped the swine off my plastic toddler-plate and uttered disdainfully, "Animal." The issue, for me was purely aesthetic. Some people don't dig brussels sprouts, some people don't dig Jerry Lewis, I don't dig carne.
As I grew up I developed into something of a foodie, but obviously the lion's share of culinary delights are not intended for me. I can't appreciate bone marrow or charcuterie or a cheeseburger. I've gotten by on salad in a churrascaria, watching the gauchos deliver fresh slabs to my omnivorous friends (whom I do not judge). The salad was fine.When I was in D.C. recently, and I heard that Ben's Chili Bowl had a veggie chili, I knew I would have to go. So many of these local institutions are meat-centric and the assumption is that they could care less about their veg-brethren. But Ben cared. Hell, you master the art of chili (Ben's won a James Beard award in 2004), making a meatless version shouldn't be all that difficult.
After a few drinks with some college friends, we headed over to 1213 U Street, hopped on some stools at the counter and ordered. I asked for veggie chili cheese fries, making sure to emphasize the word "veggie." It's easy to see that you've accidentally been served a beef patty instead of a soy-based one, but chili and veggie chili look an awful lot alike. Moments later this beautiful pile appeared in front of me, as if sent from some psychedelic comfort food heaven: steamy chili atop gooey neon cheese atop perfectly fried potatoes.
The pile had a short life. Was it good? It was perfect. And anyway, I needed to renew my membership in the Clean The Plate Club, which I did with gusto. Thanks, Ben, for allowing this vegetarian to see what all the fuss is about.
Max Goldblatt is a music video director, documentary editor, dance choreographer, food writer and founder of a band called "The Combover." He blogs at http://tothemaxxx.tumblr.com
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